Dear
Fellow Wine Society Members:
Season's Greetings! I hope that you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving and are enjoying a fruitful and peaceful holiday season. It's hard to believe that the year is coming to a close and my term as the Wine Society Host is winding down. I believe we have had a successful year and have remained true to the strategic plan for the Wine Society's future. I have thoroughly enjoyed working with the society's board of managers and am continuously amazed at the enthusiasm and the dedication of my fellow club managers who are so active in keeping the society running and moving forward. As
you know, many of the society's events occur in concert with
CMAA's Annual Conference. You received a FAXback flyer from
CMAA Headquarters at the end of November asking if you were
planning to attend the Wine Society Business Meeting on Tuesday,
February 4. It is very important that we have a headcount for
that event so that enough places are set and the presenter has
enough wine available for the tasting. If you plan on attending,
but did not return the FAXback form, please call Melissa Low
at (703) 739-9500 and let her know you will be attending. The
meeting will feature a Wine Society business agenda, followed
by a fantastic presentation by Joy Sterling of Iron Horse Vineyards.Of course, I always greatly anticipate the Annual Wine Society Dinner. This year, we will be at the Indian Creek Country Club. Many thanks to Michael MacDonald, CCM, for hosting us - we look forward to a fantastic evening! This Year, the Wine Society Also Has Planned Two Pre-Conference Workshops. * Saturday, February 1: Chef Allen Susser of Chef Allen's will present a first-rate food and wine workshop. The award- winning chef will explain his famous New World Cuisine and keep attendees captivated with his innovative style and unique juxtaposition of flavors. Participants will also enjoy the wines of Newton Vineyard while learning about unfiltration in chardonnays and cabernets from Louis McGuagne of Veuve Cliquot. * Sunday, February 2: Virginia Philips, Master Sommelier at The Breakers and well-known for her real-world approach to wine, will entertain and inform club managers as she provides an intense review of three classic wine regions of Europe. Her straight talk approach will teach you what you need to know, taking the mystery out of selecting the wines of Burgundy. You will then travel to the Champagne region of France and explore its complexities through a tasting. Participants will finish the day with a look at Tuscany with the "Old World" approach and the new generation of "Super Tuscans." If you haven't made your travel arrangements for Conference yet, then please plan on coming a day or two early to participate in these two wonderful events. And, of course, there is the phenomenal Wine Auction! Plan on coming by and placing your bids! We plan on raising more than $30,000 - so please come be a part of the event. Chapter Representatives: Be sure to advertise and adhere to the shipping rules for the auction donations - it will make it less burdensome on the chapter financially! I look forward to seeing you in Miami Beach! Sincerely, J.R. Gayle, CCM 2002 Host |
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Cellar
Notes
- NCCMA
Wine Series
In
the spring of 2002, the National Capital chapter of CMAA determined
that it wanted to create a new wine event for its chapter members and
their guests. The goal of this event would be to provide exposure to
the International Wine Society, further educate our members and guests
on premium wines and cuisine and foster networking, socializing and
renewing of friendships.
The committee decided in order to provide premium wines without the host club losing money, we would charge $115 per person inclusive for International Wine Society members and $125 per person inclusive for non-members. The first event was held at Columbia Country Club on September 15, 2002. There were 32 attendees, representing eight clubs. Wines from the Burgundy region of France were paired with a delightful seven-course dinner. The committee's goal is to provide 3-4 dinners per year. The Sulgrave Club hosted the 2nd event in November and the Metropolitan Club of Washington is scheduled to host the 3rd events in January. To see the pictures visit the Wine Society Photo Archive here
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Cellar
Notes - Wine Musings: A Memorable Event with Dominus Wines
By Tom Bertani, CCM I have the good fortune of attending a number of wine events and tastings, and the Dominus Vertical Tasting this past summer was truly among the most memorable. On August 21, 2002, Edouard Moueix visited at the Ritz Carlton, St. Louis, to discuss the virtues of Dominus while offering samples of this lordly wine. Dominus was founded by Edouard's father, Christian Moueix, one of the most-acclaimed, written-about and revered winemakers in the world. In an age when hyperbole is de rigueur, it does not apply to the achievements of Christian Moueix. His wine making feats are stratospheric due in part to the legendary wine he vinifies in France, Chateau Petrus and Dominus, which is produced in California. Dominus was founded in 1981. The founding begins with a letter sent by Christian Moueix to Robert Mondavi seeking advice about quality vineyards available in Napa Valley. Robert Mondavi, in turn, introduced him to Robin Lail and Marky Daniel Smith, daughters of John Daniel, Jr. (former owner of Inglenook Winery). John Daniel, Jr., was one of the most important and innovative vintners of the mid-twentieth century. Though the winery was sold in 1964, the family still retained an important asset, the revered 140-acre vineyard located in Yountville known as Napanook. Napanook was an integral source of the acclaimed Inglenook cabernet sauvignons produced in the 1940s. Together, the sisters and Christian united to form a partnership called the John Daniel Society with the intent to again produce a world-famous wine using grapes from the vineyard to be called Dominus. The first vintage, 1982, was unsuccessful due to excessive tannins and was sold off in bulk. Dominus made its debut in 1983. Dominus came to be identified with Christian Moueix and, in 1995, the sisters sold the Napanook vineyard to him. Dominus produces approximately 6,000 cases of wine. In addition to Dominus, Christian began producing Napanook beginning with the 1996 vintage. Edouard offered that Dominus is complex and elegant with great finesse; Napanook is meant to be consumed young and to afford great early pleasure. Dominus uses a traditional "left bank" Bordeaux blend which is primarily cabernet sauvignon based with a lesser percentages of merlot, petite verdot and cabernet franc. Only merlot and cabernet sauvignon are used in all vintages of Dominus with the other varietals added at the discretion of Christian and his team of wine makers depending on the vintage. Examples of this are the 1998 and 1997 vintages. The 1998 blend is 73 percent cabernet sauvignon, 15 percent cabernet franc, 6 percent merlot and 6 percent petite verdot. The 1997 blend is 87 percent cabernet sauvignon, 9 percent cabernet franc and 4 percent merlot. This poses a real curiosity for Christian Moueix's disciples. The celebrated Chateau Petrus, which he owns, is located in Pommerol or the "right bank." Pommerol vintners, and Petrus most notably, use the Merlot grape almost exclusively. As a fact, 70 to 75 percent of all grapes planted in Pommerol are merlot, followed by 20 to 25 percent cabernet franc and only 5 percent cabernet sauvignon. When I posed this conundrum to Edouard, his reply was, "There is no recipe; we aim for elegance, complexity, pleasure and equilibrium." Among Edouard's other highly quotable remarks: "Wine is pleasure; the aim of wine is not investment." "We are not winemakers; we are producers of wine, nature makes wines." "Wine is beautiful, full of pleasure." And, when asked if Dominus is American or French, "An American wine with French education." The tasting commenced with Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley, Brut, NV. This sparkling wine, vinified in California by the famed French house, Roederer, is, in my opinion, the best non-vintage sparkling wine in California. It exhibits all the wonderful qualities one expects from a great non vintage "Champagne." Aromas of yeast with a slight hint of freshly baked bread or toast, crisp and distinct chardonnay flavors, a long finish and an iridescent mousse make for a delicious choice when a quality sparkling wine is needed. It is priced at the ridiculous cost of $14 wholesale. Vintages of Dominus ranging from 1995 through 1998 were sampled in addition to Napanook, 1998. My favorite vintage was 1997. It was a "stunner."Great spice, aromas of cedar, leather and ripe cherry fruit produced a wonderful wine. Perhaps the best vintage over the years will be the 1995. It was a bruiser, somewhat closed, almost brooding, but with great extraction and fruit. With time, it should be memorable. Look for the 1999 Dominus which will be released shortly. It will rival the better vintages of Dominus. |
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For those who take wine and food pairing seriously, finding the proper wine for an unusual food can be a challenge, even for an expert. Simple rules like white wines with fish and red wines with meat, though rooted in tradition, are often too general to fit many exotic food flavors. Such is the case when choosing a wine to pair with the country's latest trend in beef consumption - grass-fed beef. Long
considered a passing fad by more traditional corn-and-grain-fed-beef
producers, grass-fed beef has been quietly making new converts, particularly
among high-end restaurateurs and meat aficionados in Northern California.
In this political and health conscious corner of the world, grass fed
beef seems to strike a balanced chord with those who demand that their
beef be raised in a more sustainable manner, while still delivering
exceptional flavor.
A return
to the way beef used to be raised, grass-fed beef has been catching
on with market savvy ranchers throughout this country who prefer to
fatten their cattle on grass grown in local pastures, rather than
in feedlots where steroids, corn, antibiotics and soy are the norm. |
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Cellar
Notes - President Signs Department of Justice Appropriations Authorization
Act - Limited Direct Wine Shipments For Winery Visitors Becomes Law
President George W. Bush signed the Department of Justice Appropriations Authorization Act, which includes a provision allowing wine purchased while visiting a winery to be shipped to another state. Purchasers must be in accordance with state law in that they could carry the wine into the state to which the wine is shipped. "We are pleased Congress has formally endorsed limited direct shipment of wine and the provision is now law," said Robert P. Koch, Senior Vice President of The Wine Institute. "This is a practical and responsible solution which was crafted by Congress to help winery visitors get their wine home." Purchasers must be of legal age to buy wine. The shipment requires an adult signature upon delivery, and the wine must be for personal use only and not for resale. The provision is in effect during any period that the Federal Aviation Administration has restrictions on airline passengers to ensure safety. Congress adopted this common sense provision as a result of heightened airline security. Impact of Department of Justice Appropriations Authorization Act on California Wineries The following is a summary of state direct shipping laws after President Bush signed into law the Department of Justice Appropriations Authorization Act on November 2, 2002. These changes apply only when an out-of-state customer is present in person at the winery at the time of purchase. Click below for the: States That Will Change Because of the New Law States That Already Allow Direct Shipments Under Reciprocal or Limited Direct Shipment Laws (these states will not be changes) States That Will Continue to Prohibit Direct Shipments |
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Society
Happenings - Off to France with the CMAA Wine Society
By Chuck Walter, CCM In September and October, the International Wine Society went on its annual wine workshop - this year, we had the pleasure of going to France. The first group went September 28-October 5, and group two went October 12-19. The
majority of the participants arrived in Lyon on a Saturday and made
their way to the four-star Hotel Cour des Loges in the old Roman sector
of Lyon. As the group had two open evenings, everyone dined at the finest
gourmet restaurants in France - having marvelous experiences at the
Michelin- and non-Michelin-starred restaurants.
The next afternoon, the group experienced a guided walking tour of the old city, including the Roman amphitheater, cathedrals and an overview of Lyon. This was followed by a welcome reception featuring a fine chablis. Following
breakfast on Monday morning, we boarded our bus, which was blessed
with an outstanding driver, and made our way to Tain l'Hermitage and
the excellent wines of Chapoutier located in the northern Rhone Valley.
We went directly into a comprehensive wine tasting of the full range
of wines led by Michael Affatato. Many of the wines come from adjacent
vineyards but, due to the granite soil, tasted completely different.
During the course of our tasting, we learned that this harvest is
expected to yield 50 percent less than normal due to a hail storm
and heavy rains. However, the quality should be excellent and unaffected.
The group than took a walk up into the vineyards followed by lunch at Le Pavillion De L'Hermitage. Lunch included five courses complimented by a variety of Chapoutier wines with an excellent explanation of the wine and food pairings. The menu included Scandinavian seafood and dressing, scorpion fish fillet in a butter and herb sauce, roasted veal in a wild mustard seed sauce, a choice of cheeses and chocolate mousse. One of the first wines was corked; this provided an excellent opportunity to smell and taste a truly corked wine. Our next stop was Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe in Chateauneuf du Pape. This fabulous 100 year-old estate has steadily increased its holdings. All of its wines are on allocation and, once again with the decreased yield expected for this year, will be difficult to get for vintage 2002. Daniel Brunier, one of the owners, organized an outstanding tour and tasting for us guided by the U.S. export director. Although he was unable to join us due to the harvest, he arranged an exquisite dinner at our hotel complimented by his fine wines in magnums. The dinner included salmon followed by a leg of veal, a cheese course and a trio of chocolate desserts. Our hotel for the next two nights was the four-star Hotel d'Europe, located in the historic center inside the ramparts of Avignon in the middle of Provence. Built in 1580, it was once the ancient mansion of Margues de Graveson. This hotel offers views of the Palace of the Popes and the Rhone River and has been welcoming travelers for two centuries. Over the years, its 47 rooms have been occupied by notable historic figures including Napoleon Bonaparte, Chateaubriand and Picasso! On Tuesday, we were off to Chateau de Beaucastle and were greeted by Michael Rijkin. He conducted a tour and tasting in the cellar. His presentation was one of the finest, most descriptive and easiest to understand of the Rhone regions and Chateauneuf de Pape. He arranged a comprehensive buffet lunch complimented by his selection of Reserve Perrin 2000 and Cote de Rhone 2001 at the fabulous Chateau de Fin Roche in Chateauneuf de Pape. The chateau appears as a castle looking down on an ocean of vines. After lunch, we visited the Chateau Monte Redon where we were met by Didier Fabre for a tour of his facility and a comprehensive tasting. This is a Kobrand Chateau, and I would be remiss in not acknowledging its outstanding support of this and our more recent trips. After our tour and tasting, we returned to Avignon for a professionally guided tour of the historic Palace of the Popes. Didier Fabre planned our dinner and joined us at Le Prieure, a Relais and Chateaux four-star hotel and restaurant. This historic hotel was built in 1322 and restored in 1987 and features beautiful gardens. The dinner was complimented by the fine wines of Monte Redon and an explanation of the pairings by our host was considered a highlight of the meal. The dinner consisted of salad croqstillante de filets de Pougets en Rouille de Fenouit, composte de tomte ar gingembre et jus de Bouillabaisse, Aiguillette de canard sauvignon aux fines epices, La cuisse laguee ar mile de lavands et nauets confits ar sesame, Cheure frais et affine, Cailleet marmalade de fruits, Cannelle et comin and bombe chocolat Arabica one Glace vanilla with Sauce cocco. On
Wednesday morning, we traveled north to Chateau des Jacques. Our
group was hosted by Guillaume de Castelanu and his lovely wife in
this outstanding Beaujolais facility. This chateau ha made a concerted
effort to once again produce the great wines that age well in the
days of the great Beaujolais of the past and not the Novelle of
more recent times. Our lunch featured Belee de Laperau, andouillette,
Plateau de fromages and assiettte de fruits frais glaces with a
very nice Beaujolais Villages Blanc 1996 and a Moulin a Vent 1994.
Guillame offered his wines in association with classical music,
which gave us a new appreciation and perspective.
After
lunch, we departed for our hotel in Beaune in the heart of Burgundy.
Hotel Le Cep is located in the center of the city and is comprised
of old homes built in the 14th and 18th centuries. Each of its
57 rooms is a totally unique experience. After checking in, we
were off to a walk to Jaffelin. Our host, Benoit Goujon, the managing
director, conducted a tasting in the cellar, which was followed
with dinner. Throughout our visits in Burgundy, we were privileged
to taste so many of its fine wines including Chambolle-Musigny,
Chassagne-Montrachet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Mercyrey, Meursault,
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Poueilly-Fuisse, Volnay and Vosne-Romanee.
The dinner was beautifully orchestrated by Benoit with in-depth
explanations of all of the pairings. The highlight of the evening
was when our host offered some members of our group his key to
the cellar and allowed them to choose any wines they wished to
taste. The wines were then brought upstairs for all of us to share.
It was a memorable experience to have the opportunity to taste
an '83, '85, '89 and, finally, a '61. The evening was an experience
of a lifetime.
On Thursday
morning, we took a short walk to Maison Joseph Drouhin where we
were welcomed by Jean-Pierre Cropsal, probably the most knowledgeable
individual in the Burgundy region. He led our group on an extensive
tour of the vast cellars below Beaune and gave a thorough explanation
of the region from its origins to present. This tour was followed
by an in-depth wine tasting with specific emphasis on soils and
their influence on the wines, specifically the two primary wines
of the region - chardonnay and pinot noir. We were privileged to
have Jean Pierre join us in the vineyards where he had organized
a picnic lunch. It featured specialties of the Beaune area and some
of Joseph Drouhin's fine wines - a Rully Blanc 2000 and a Chambolle-Musigny
1999 and 2000.Our group then proceeded to the Hotel Dieu, which originated in the Middle Ages around the year 1452 as a hospice and still functions in the same capacity today. Its grounds include 61 hectars of vineyards. Since 1859, it has been the site of the most famous wine auction in the world. After a free afternoon of shopping, we journeyed to the Maison Chanson Pere & Fils. We were hosted by the director general, Bernard Repolt. Bernard and I go back to Bernard's days at Jaffelin some 18 years ago. Our host conducted a short tour relating the history as it applied to the development of wine followed by an extensive tasting in the cellar. We then proceeded to the historic Marion family chateau for dinner. Not to be outdone by our prior evening, Bernard announced that we needed to taste a mystery wine. He proceeded to the family library in the cellars and returned with an old, unlabeled bottle of red burgundy wine. The group attempted to estimate the vintage during tasting. It was a Chambertin Grand Cru '37 and was still earthy, fruity and well-balanced with tannin and acid. Now, we truly thought we had had the experience of a lifetime, but Bernard disappeared again to bring forth another mystery wine. This wine was barely there but drinkable. We all attempted to correctly identify the vintage but were unsuccessful. It was a Romanee 1904, older than anyone in the room! It had been re corked 20 years ago and was still fruity with aroma of juicy mushrooms. Everyone in the room was in awe of the magic of the night and responded to Bernard's toast: "First, we salute the people who made these wines, then the people who kept these wines and for the future for the people to keep this tradition. We have no business here tonight but friendship and time to experience wine together." On Friday morning, the group proceeded to Michel Picard winery at Chatear de Chassagne Montrachet, where we were met by the owner's daughter, Francine Picard. She led us on a tour where we enjoyed tasting the 2002 vintage in different degrees of processing directly from the stainless steel tanks. In 1997, Michel developed a unique tank that has three different tanks within one tank where the levels can be adjusted by screens. Here the tanks are closed and the submerged cap is at midlevel. Our lunch was in the dining room of the old cellar featuring foods of the region with Picard's Saint Aubin 2000 and a number of other wines of this fine chateau. Michael Picard knew from age 16 what wine he wanted to make and has succeeded over the years. He now enjoys sharing his fine wines. Our final tour and tasting was held at the outstanding winery of Maison Louis Jadot, one of the largest wineries in all of Burgundy. We were honored to be met by Jaques Lardiere, a world renowned winemaker for more than 30 years at Jadot. He presented an overview of Burgundy followed by a tour of the brand new, state-of-the-art winery in circular design. In the cellar, we tasted 24 of Jadot's wines, which are all imported by Kobrand into the United States. Our farewell dinner was held at Covent des Jocobins, the Jadot property in the old city of Beaune. During the course of dinner, a number of testimonials were made, highlighted by Patty Hathaway's poem for Chuck Walter. The dinner featured favorites of the region of Beaune. The pairings included a Beaune primier Cue "Les Graves" 1992 with Terrine de Figue Foie Gras, a Chambertin, Grand Cru 1982 with Filet de Veau Aux Girolles and a Aloxe Corton 1976 with Plateau de Fromages Regionaux and Tarte Fine Aux Pomme. The group, with their palates exhausted and a few extra pounds, unanimously agreed that the 2002 wine workshop in France had been a total success. Thank you to the participants, the great support from the wineries in the region, the CMAA International Wine Society and the wonderful people with whom we shared this experience. We will take with us memories to last a lifetime. Now, we all look forward to a unique experience with next year's adventures in New Zealand. This takes us from the oldest vineyards of France to some of the youngest in the world for a new perspective in the world of wine. To see the pictures visit the Wine Society Photo Archive here
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Society
Happenings - Club Managers Association of America Wine Society Dinner
Update
By Tom Bertani, CCM, and Kirk Reese, CCM On Tuesday, February 4, 2003, participants of the CMAA Wine Society Wine Dinner will be treated to a spectacular evening of fine wines, culinary delights and fellowship. Kobrand Corporation has generously donated all wines (except for one). It will be a multinational offering of world-class wines. The Wine Society also has had the good fortune of General Manager Michael MacDonald of Indian Creek Country Club offering to host the event. The Indian Creek Country Club is truly one of the great private clubs in the United States and offers a panoramic view of the Miami skyline. It is anticipated that Mike and his culinary and service teams will provide a memorable evening. It
was discussed amongst Wine Society board members and it was agreed that
this event remain a black- tie dinner. The price per person will remain
$150 person for CMAA-Wine Society members. Seating is limited so it
is advisable that reservations for the wine dinner be made early so
as not to be disappointed. In vino veritas!
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Dear
Wine Society Friends:
Last year, I was lucky enough to win the wine contest at the National Conference in San Antonio. This places upon me the responsibility of writing this year's test, and I'm happy to announce that the little quiz is coming along nicely (insert evil laugh here!). The questions range from moderately easy to sublimely esoteric. At any rate, I promise that the test will bring forth a smile and a laugh and, most probably, a tear and a grimace as well. Please make plans to attend the business meeting this year. Where else can you get education points while catching a buzz? Our board has worked hard at bringing in excellent winery owners, and they, in turn, have brought in their best selections. This is a good way to start an afternoon in Miami Beach. I
hope to see all of you, and, until then, I will leave you with a few
thoughts - "Winespeaking,"of course.
Question: What is a Wine Society member's favorite w(h)ine this winter? Answer: Take me to Miami! We will drink no wine before its time. And since it's after 7:00 p.m., it's TIME! Remember, no "wine"ing about the test! Finally, as Aristotle once said, "When a man drinks wine, he begins to feel better about himself" (true about women also) - I"ll drink to that. Votre sante, Michael Ambrose, "Wine Sadist" |
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Contents
© the Club Managers Association of America (CMAA), 2003. All rights
reserved. While every effort was made to ensure the accuracy of URL links,
CMAA is not responsible for errors or omissions. CMAA is not responsible
for the content of linked sites. Please see our Legal
Notice and Disclaimer and Terms
of Use. |
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