I
recently had the good fortune of attending a "Taylor Fladgate and
Fonseca port" seminar that proved quite educational.
Port is often under-appreciated due in part to its complex pedigree
and history. The birthplace of Port is the Upper Douro Valley in Portugal.
The Upper Douro is the oldest wine region to be demarcated and regulated
by law (in 1756), making port the oldest controlled denomination of
origin (appellation). Vines have grown on these hillsides since Roman
times. The upper Douro is a very remote, mountainous region. The finest
port is produced from grapes grown on the steep and rocky slopes of
the Upper Douro and its tributaries. The vineyards are so steep, the
vines must be planted on tiers of walled terraces, towering one above
the other like steps. To make new terraces in this rocky terrain,
dynamite is often needed to blast away great outcrops of
slate-like stone, which forms the bedrock of the Douro's best vineyard
soils. The vine roots sometimes dive 40 feet down through rock fissures
in search of water. The rocky soil means that yields are very low
and the juice very concentrated. The distinctive character of port
is like every classic wine, a product of its climate, soil and grape
variety. The Upper Douro Valley lies about 100 kilometers inland from
the coast and is protected from the influences of the Atlantic winds
by a range of mountains called the Marao. It is cold in the winter
and very hot and dry in summer. A vineyard estate in the Douro is
known as a Quinta.
In the 17th century, British traders who were often cut
off from supplies of Bordeaux wine due to frequent wars with France
took a liking to the full and robust flavors of Portuguese wines.
Under the Methuen Treaty of 1703, England granted lower duties to
Portuguese wines than to those of France and Germany and became, for
over a century, the principal market for the wines of the Douro Valley.
But the wines did not travel well so the traders added brandy to fortify
the wines to protect them from the difficult travels across the Atlantic
Ocean. The early traders found out that, not only did this "fortification"
protect the wine, but improved it, giving it the power to mature into
something special. Before long, pure grape spirit was added during
fermentation and port as we know it today was created.
It is Opporto, the ancient city at the mouth of the Douro River, that
gives port its name. In Opporto, port is stored and matures in the
cool cellars of the port houses known as lodges. The temperate coastal
climate of Oporto ensures port will age slowly. It is here that the
character of the young port in the cask is transformed into the greatness
that vintage ports can achieve.
Late September
in the Upper Douro is vintage time. Pickers return from their mountain
villages to work in the vineyards by day and "stomp" the grapes at
night. Though laborious and costly, Taylor- and Fonseca-owned vineyards
continue to be harvested by hand and grapes stomped by foot. The Douros
has a wealth of traditional grape varietals. Among the finest are
the heavily scented Tourigas, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Francesa,
producing wine of concentration and boldness, Tinta Roriz, with firm
tannins and cedary nose, the supple, flowery Tinta Barroca and the
Tinta Cao, one of the oldest varietals grown in the Douro Valley.
The port ferments in wide stone tanks, known as lagares, carefully
watched over by the winemaker. The gentle tread of the pickers' feet
gradually extracts the rich color and tannins from the skins. When
the yeasts have turned about half the grape's natural sugar into alcohol,
the treading stops and the skins are allowed to float to the top of
the lagar. The fermented wine is drawn from under the skins into a
vat. A clean colorless brandy is added to the wine in the vat. This
is known as "fortification" of the wine. As a result, the fermentation
is stopped, leaving much of the original sweetness of the wine. Port
must then be aged. Since Port is fortified, it is capable of aging
in wood for much longer than other wines.
The way port is aged falls into two broad categories -- wood-aged
ports and bottle-aged ports. Most ports are wood-aged. There are three
main styles. The first style is the fruity and full-bodied ports that
include ruby, vintage character and late-bottled. These wines generally
age for no more than five or six years in large oak vats. Wood contact
is minimal and results in the port retaining its deep red color and
fruitiness.
The
second style produces the mellow, complex ports that have had the
benefit of greater contact with wood, being aged in small oak casks.
These ports include tawny ports and calheita ports that are often
characterized by an amber hue, with spicy, nutty and plum flavors.
Lastly, there are white ports. These are usually aged in cask or vat
for a short time so they develop mellowness while keeping their fruitiness.
They are usually enjoyed as an aperitif.
The main type of bottle-aged Port is vintage port. Vintage port is
the finest and rarest of all ports. Collectors seek out these ports.
It is a selection of the very best wine from a single exceptional
vintage and represents a very small proportion of the crop that is
picked. Vintage ports remain for only two years in wood, usually in
a large vat. It is then bottled and aged for many years, even decades.
A bottle of vintage port must always be "laid down," so that the cork
is in contact with the port preventing the cork from drying out. To
serve vintage port, the wine must be separated from the sediment (crust)
by decanting. Vintage ports fall into two categories: Declared vintage
and single quinta vintages. Declared vintages are the best vintage
years, which produce wines of great concentration, flavor and longevity.
Single quinta vintage ports are made from the best grapes of a single
estate, in years when the wines are softer and early maturing. Single
quinta vintages usually are ready to drink 10 to 15 years after harvest.
Single quinta ports should also be decanted.
The pairing of cheese with port will depend on which port is served.
A 10-year tawny port matches well with less assertive, milder cheeses
such as a double Gloucester. A 20-year tawny port matches well with
dry, hard and salty cheeses such as Parmesan.
A 30-year tawny port matches well with cheeses such as Emlett or Frais
de Brebis. A ruby port matches will with full-flavored goat's milk
cheese. Of course, a vintage or late-bottle port matches well with
robust blue-veined cheeses such as Stilton, Gorgonzola, Fourme d'Ambert
or Cabrales. With or without cheese, port is an excellent choice to
conclude a memorable dinner.
Graphics for this article reprinted from: The Culinary Institute of
America, Steven Koplan, Brian H. Smith, Michael A. Weiss, Exploring
Wine, 2nd edition, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., New York,
2002, pp. 193, 497, 499, 503. COPYRIGHT
© 2002 THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA.
The
year 2003 is destined to take
its place among the greatest vintages in the storied history of France.
Comparisons in France hail towards the legendary 1947 vintage ring from
the bell towers of Dijon to the banks of the Gironde. Expensive, yes;
worth it ... well, how many of you would pay a lot to taste a legend?
Think of driving the Bentley Arnage or flying the Concorde across to
Paris. You do it for the experience. I think some members will agree
that whatever you pay, they'll want the experience. With such lofty
expectations your members might even see the relative value for such
wines. Speaking personally, this is a once in a lifetime opportunity
to see what perfection in Bordeaux or Burgundy means on such a large
scale.Chuck Walter, CCM, and Michael Robinson, MCM, have set a fantastic Pre-Conference Workshop in Santa Barbara this February. Two days in Santa Barbara wine country await the participants of this wine tour. Santa Barbara is a beautiful viticultural area framed by both Spanish and European influences. The vintner's most influential wines are the beautiful chardonnays and pinot noirs that receive the cooling afternoon Pacific breezes. Vineyards such as Sanford and Benedict are receiving as much acclaim for their wines as their counterparts in Napa and Sonoma. Winemakers such as Richard Sanford are demonstrating that Santa Barbara's wines are world-class. I recommend that you don't miss this special tour.
Perfection is rarely attained in dining. However, last week, I traveled to Washington, VA, to sample the delights of the Inn at Little Washington and Chef Patrick O'Connell. Christened by no less than Robert Mondavi as the "Pope of American Cuisine," Patrick O' Connell has transformed a sleepy little village into one of the top dining destination in the world. The courses were spectacular as were the wines paired with them. But the most striking feature of the experience was that this was created in the middle of nowhere.
Washington, VA, is a good hour and one half journey from Washington, D.C. The fact that they have created this temple of American cuisine far out in the country should inspire those of us who wish to create or re-establish something as simple as formal dining or special event dining in our clubs. Their formula is simple; do something so well as to be the very best. Although they are extravagant in décor and their service is so quick as to be invisible, they make each diner feel as though they are part of something special. And, yes, they have the only perfect score in Zagat history, but their guests travel out for the entire experience not just the food. Both Patrick O' Connell and Reinhart Gehres, the co owners, are very visible but their entire staff adds to the experience as demonstrated by the costumed busboy waving a lantern of incense as waiters cleared our path to the table set for us in the kitchen. You think I'll ever forget that much less the meal? No way. We draw a simple lesson for success; make each meal memorable and you'll do alright.
In vino veritas,
Kirk
I
recently had the distinct privilege of a lunch engagement with Janeanne
Harrod Rinaldi, regional manager for Caymus Vineyards. Not unexpectedly,
it was an outstanding day of great food, superior wines and immense educational
value.Caymus Vineyards really needs no introduction. Caymus is among the handful of preeminent and most widely known American wineries. The Caymus history (in California) commenced in 1885 when the Wagner forefathers, the family owners of the winery, emigrated from Alsace and made their way to the San Francisco Bay area. Following the 1906 earthquake, they acquired farmland in the Napa Valley. In 1912, Charlie Wagner was born on the family's farm in Rutherford, CA. In 1915, the Wagner family built a winery on the property to produce bulk wines. The winery grew to produce 30,000 gallons per year prior to Prohibition.
In 1941, Charlie Wagner and his wife, Lorna Belle Glos Wagner, who also has a long family history of viticulture and winemaking in the Napa Valley, purchased 73 acres in what will become (in 1993) the Rutherford District American Viticulture Area. They gained a reputation as skilled grape growers and home winemakers. In the early 1960s Charlie Wagner pulls out fruit orchards to plant pinot noir, johannisberg riesling and, more significantly, a cabernet sauvignon clone from highly regarded grower Nathan Fay's vineyard. More than 60 acres of cabernet vineyard on this site remain the core of Caymus' cabernet sauvignons today.
In 1972, Charlie, Lorna and their son, Charles J. (Chuck) Wagner established Caymus Vineyards and produced their first wines, including 240 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon. They took the name Caymus from the Rancho Caymus Mexican land grant that, in the 19th century, encompassed much of the area surrounding what is now Rutherford. In 1975, Caymus introduced "Special Selection," a Cabernet Sauvignon chosen from the best lots and given extended barrel aging. Also notable that year is that Randall Dunn joined the team as winemaker. In 1984, Chuck took over as winemaker. In 1989, Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, 1984 is named "Wine of the Year" by Wine Spectator, beating out more than 6,000 other wines. This prestigious award was repeated again in 1994 as the 1990 Caymus Special Selection was again named, "Wine of The Year." In 2002, regretfully, the patriarch and visionary of Caymus, Charlie Wagner, passed away in his 90th year. Chuck Wagner continues his family's legacy of producing outstanding wines and maintains the stellar reputation that Caymus most deservedly earned.
Wines Tasted
Belle Glos, Pinot Noir, 2001.
This wine, aptly named after Chuck's mom, is the first release from this winery. It is produced from grapes on a 75-acre vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara). It lies on a west-facing slope just 13 miles from the ocean, permitting cool inland air to flow in, perfect for growing pinot noir. The winemaker is Jon Bolta. This pinot noir is delicious with aromas of raspberry, subtle spice and earthiness. The fresh flavors of bright berry fruit further enhance this soft, almost silky wine.
Conundrum, 2001.
Yes this wine is a riddle! Riddle me this, Batman, "What wine is produced that uses five white grape varietals?" Don't be a Joker, it's Conundrum, of course! A meritage of viognier, muscat, semillon, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, this esoteric wine is absolutely refreshing. If there is ever a wine that has universal appeal, it is Conundrum. Go right to the store and purchase a bottle and find out yourself. This wine is perfect on a private club wine list. It is refreshing, great for outdoor events, sensible wholesale cost ($18), serious enough for knowledgeable wine drinkers but "fun" enough for those who are looking for an alternative to chardonnay and it will match with a multitude of foods. The blend is made more complex by treating each wine separately, respecting each varietal's unique flavor profile that results in an unprecedented combination of aromas and flavors.
Caymus, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2000.
A wonderful wine, from a very good vintage. It has a deep ruby color, with blackberry and cassis aromas followed by hints of cedar and leather. Flavors of ripe berry fruit and a bit of spice make for a compelling cabernet sauvignon.
Caymus, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Select, 2000. Wow, what a treat. The mystic allure of the flagship wine of the winery is well-earned. It is elegant, complex, rich and round in the mouth, with a long, immensely delightful finish. There is lush fruit, and a toasty, exotic spice and oak nose present. A little behind the ear, please. Everything and more than one desires in the search for the quintessential cabernet.
Inside Scoop for the fresh foie gras lovers of the world ... Executive Chef Lou Rook, Annie Gunn's Restaurant, offered as a special of the day, "Fresh seared foie gras mini burgers on small brioche rolls with fresh pear chutney." Paired with the Conundrum, well I will keep it clean, so let's call it "hedonistic."
For additional information, Caymus Vineyard has a Web site at www.caymus.com.
2001
was the first vintage for Forgeron Cellars located in Walla Walla, WA.
Forgeron Cellars is only one of many boutique wineries in the Walla Walla
Valley appellation, but what makes Forgeron different from the others
is its charming and talented award-winning winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla.At the winery, they call her Marie. She speaks with a heavy French accent and seems to be a jack-of-all-trades. She is the manager, winemaker, marketing professional, purchasing agent, contracting officer, order taker and even delivery gal. When we ordered our first cases of Forgeron 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2001 Syrah, it was Marie-Eve who lugged in the wine from her truck. At the winery, you can find her in the laboratory doing chemical analysis, in the barrel room tasting and in the tasting room pouring for visitors. You also can find her in the vineyards tasting all the lots so that she can select the best grapes for her elegant wines. All of this and she is a new mom with a one-year old baby. We wonder, how does she do it all?
Marie-Eve, who grew up in Paris, realized at a young age that she wanted to be a winemaker. She moved to Burgundy and enrolled in the University of Dijon to study enology and viticulture. Her practical training was in the cellars and vineyards of local Burgundy wineries. After earning her Masters degree in 1991, she came to the United States to work at Argyle winery in Dundee, OR, making pinot noir, chardonnay and sparkling wines. A year later, she went to work for Covey Run Winery in Washington's Yakima Valley. It was here that she met husband Gilles Nicault, another successful young winemaker from France.
After four years of making wines for Covey Run, she went to work for Gordon Brothers in the Tri-Cities. In 2000, with a group of Walla Walla investors, she established Forgeron Cellars in an old blacksmith shop in Walla Walla. Forgeron is the French word for blacksmith.
Marie-Eve's wine-making philosophy focuses on the grapes. She says that you can't make good wine with poor fruit. She hand-selects and purchases her grapes from some of the finest vineyard sites in the Walla Walla and Columbia Valley appellations. These include Pepper Bridge, Dubrul, Adler Ridge, Les Collines, Klipsun, Kiona and Clifton. Her wine-making style emphasizes fruit rather than oak. In her wines, you find elegance, complexity and a long finish. She uses predominately French oak. Barrels made in Bordeaux are used for the cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Burgundian-style barrels are used to produce chardonnay and syrah. She uses a small amount of American oak to add spiciness.
Initially, the Forgeron investors only wanted to produce red wine. Marie-Eve, after much discussion, was able to finally convince them that a chardonnay was needed. The marketplace proved her right. The first vintage of chardonnay quickly sold out. The release date for their second vintage of chardonnay was August 1, 2003.
The 2001 cabernet sauvignon was released in May 2003. The blend contains four percent merlot. The wine has lots of cherry and currant fruit on the palate with hints of nutmeg, spice and vanilla. The 2001 syrah, also released in May, has blueberry aromas with a hint of spice. Both wines are available in the retail markets in the Tri-Cities area and in Seattle. The 2001 zinfandel is only available at the winery.
For your next tax-deductible vacation, plan a wine-tasting trip to Walla Walla and visit Marie-Eve at Forgeron Cellars.
Reserve
Now for the International Wine Society Dinner
Members of the
Wine Society are encouraged to make early reservations for the Wine Society
Dinner to be held February 17, 2004, at the California Club. This event
promises to be one that will offer terrific wine, a great culinary experience
and a few surprises. Harry Richter, CCM, of the California Club is very
excited about the prospect of hosting the 2004 dinner. The California
Club, one of the premier city clubs in the United States, hosts many wine
dinners similar to this one and is more than prepared to "wow"
IWS members.
Wineries such as Flora Springs, Caymus, Far Niente, Kelham, Topel, Signorello,
Franciscan, Ravenswood, Simi and Mara will feature many of their boutique
wines, some of which have less than 1,000 case production. Hors d'oeuvres
and a six-course culinary feast will be featured.
Seating for the dinner is limited to 150 members and guests. Please make
it a part of your Conference calendar. For additional information, call
Mitch Marron at (914) 949-4840 or
Tom Bertani at (314) 361-2100. More detailed information will be sent
as the event draws nearer.
Come
to the Conference Wine Social
Join
your fellow CMAA International Wine Society members and spouses for an
evening of wine tasting and conviviality! The date and time is Sunday,
February 15, 2004, from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. The IWS social and tasting
will be located in the same room as the silent wine auction. This will
give you the opportunity to preview the wine auction selections before
the silent auction officially opens. We would also like to encourage you
to bring prospective Wine Society members with you to help us grow the
society. The wines for the evening will be provided courtesy of Hogue
Cellars.
Santa Barbara County Wine Workshop
Sponsored by the CMAA International Wine Society
(Two-day Workshop)
Credits: Six Education credits
Join your fellow managers on a two-day Pre-Conference wine workshop that will tantalize your taste buds in scenic Santa Barbara County. The wineries to be visited include Cambria, Byron, Firestone, Sanford and Gainey. The groups will be staying at the Rancho Santa Barbara Marriott in Buellton, CA. (Itinerary is subject to change.)
This two-day workshop is presented by the CMAA International Wine Society and is open to all CMAA member managers and spouses. (Due to the limited capacity of this workshop, no guests will be permitted.) This workshop is limited to two groups of 34 managers and spouses. Your hosts for this workshop are Chuck Walter, CCM, and Michael Robinson, MCM. Please note that all housing and meals are included in the price of the workshop. Successful completion of this workshop will earn participants six Education credits.
Friday,
February 13, 2003
A Bacchus-Inspired Cuisine Experience - A Wine and Food Workshop
(One-day workshop)
Credits: six Education credits
| Santa Barbara County Wine Workshop Schedule |
| Friday, February 13, 2004 |
| 6:30 a.m. Bags to Bus (Bring only an overnight bag) |
| 7:00 a.m. Depart Anaheim Marriott Hotel |
| 11:00 a.m. Arrive Byron or Cambria Winery for Tour, Tasting and Lunch (Groups reverse for second winery) |
| 2:00 p.m. Arrive Byron or Cambria for Tour and Tasting |
| 4:00 p.m. Depart for Firestone Vineyards |
| 5:15 p.m. Arrive at Firestone Vineyards for Tour, Tasting and Dinner in the Barrel Room (Bring a sweater.) |
| 8:00 p.m. Depart for Rancho Santa Barbara Marriott, Buellton, CA |
| Saturday, February 14, 2004 |
| 7:00a.m. Breakfast Buffet |
| 8:00a.m. Bags to Bus and Ready for Departure |
| 9:00a.m. Arrive Sanford or Gainey Winery for Tour and Tasting |
| 10:00a.m. (Groups reverse for second winery) |
| 10:45a.m. Arrive Sanford or Gainey Winery for Tour, Tasting and Lunch |
| 2:00p.m. Depart for Anaheim Marriott Hotel -- Comprehensive Wine Workshop Exam will be administered en route. |
| 5:00p.m. Arrive Anaheim Marriott Hotel |
The Essence Tasting will consist of an educator-led program that will introduce and/or re-familiarize the participants with the many different essences in both white and red wines. Attendees will be encouraged to try the two white and two red wines offered and experience the aromas of each through sensory exposure to their respective natural elements (i.e., lemon, mint, rose, grass, black pepper, coffee, etc.).
The Umami Presentation will be slightly more structured through classroom-style seating and will consist of an educator-led program that will introduce a "5th taste element." Often found to be a controversial topic, the participants will be given the opportunity to establish the validity of Umami for themselves as they add lemon and salt to the menu samples provided by the Mondavi Center's chef.
Immediately following the education, the attendees will be regrouped and directed to the luncheon where they will experience a three-course seasonal meal and appropriate wine parings prepared by Executive Chef Paul Squicciarini.
Paul Squicciarini began his culinary career back in his home state of New Jersey at the age of 13 working at two family-owned restaurants. In 1986, he enrolled at Johnson and Wales University where he studied culinary arts and graduated with honors in 1988. In 1991, Paul's passion for wine and food brought him to Southern California where he immediately began working at the Robert Mondavi Wine and Food Center under executive chef Roseanne Ruiz. In 1993, he was named executive chef at Sorrento Grille in Laguna Beach and in 1997 returned to the Robert Mondavi Wine and Food Center as executive chef. Most recently, Paul started his own company, Bacchus-Inspired Cuisine, while continuing to oversee the kitchen at the Mondavi Center.
Following the luncheon, attendees will be treated to a presentation by Jan Shrem, proprietor of Clos Pegase Winery, on Bacchus the Rascal -- a bachanalian This is a humorous and informative, multi-media presentation that demonstrates that wine in moderation is conducive to a healthy and more graceful life.
A registration form with the fee schedule for Pre-Conference Workshops is included. Lunch is included in the "Santa Barbara County Wine Workshop" and "A Bacchus Inspired Cuisine Experience." Additional registration forms may be photocopied or obtained from the CMAA National Headquarters. Please note: Registration for Pre-Conference Workshops is separate from World Conference Registration, but may be done simultaneously.
All payments, checks or credit card, should be mailed to:
Club Managers Association of America
c/o Wachovia Lockbox
P.O. Box 85050
Richmond, VA 23285-4171
IMPORTANT: Fax registrations to (703) 739-0124 (with credit card payments only). Do not duplicate registrations by faxing and sending a hard copy to the CMAA Lockbox. Double charges could be incurred. Participants are limited to one Pre-Conference Workshop per day. Each workshop has its own fee. Please note: Class space is limited! Registrations will be processed in the order in which they are received and only with full payment. Early registrations will be confirmed by mail. Telephone or fax will confirm all other registrations. Pre-Conference Workshop regi strations will be available on site, if space permits. All persons registering on site must pay for the workshop prior to entering the class.
The 2004 IWS Silent and Live Auctions are fast approaching. Have you made your donation yet?
It is never to early to start planning and procuring wine and wine-related items for the 2004 auctions. The earlier you and your fellow chapter members start gathering donations, the earlier you can ship them and the less you have to worry about your donations arriving in time for the shipping deadlines. Please keep in mind that you also can send multiple shipments as you receive additional donations over the next few months. As long as the shipments are valued at more than $200 in wholesale amounts, as determined by the auction committee, then shipment expenses will be reimbursed and follow the shipping guidelines by The Club Foundation.
Art Barajas, CCM, the general manager of South Hills Country Club, has graciously agreed to accept all the donations and deliver them to the hotel in Anaheim. Everyone making a donation needs to fill out a pledge form, which can be found online at www.cmaa.org/winesoc. This will help make our job easier when tallying the totals for the "coveted" Bucky Award. Once again, we will be giving away four $1,000 Educational Grants in conjunction with the Bucky Award -- one for each sized chapter by category (small, medium and large) and one for the "overall" chapter that donates the most goods by wholesale value.
We will be opening the Silent Auction at 3:00 p.m. on Sunday, February 15, for a first glimpse at the items for bid. It will be open again during the IWS "Hospitality Suite" from 6:00-9:00 p.m. in the auction room. This event is open to All IWS members and a guest ONLY and there will be a special table for silent bids that will be closed out that evening at 9:00 p.m. That table of specially selected lots will then be removed from the auction and presented to the successful bidders that evening. Again, this preview is for IWS Members and guests only and is one of the benefits of membership in the Wine Society. Remind your colleagues of this great benefit
So, start talking to your fellow managers, your members and distributors about making their donations. We look forward to raising more than $50,000 in Anaheim.
| Michael
C. Kraus, CCM Co-Chair 2004 IWS Wine Auction |
Art
Barajas,CCM Co-Chair 2204 IWS Wine Auction |
The
Appellations of Napa and Sonoma - By
Tom Bertani
The
term appellation has been used for centuries in the wine-growing regions
of France. Appellations simply are distinctive wine places -- a designation
or identification of a defined wine area. These viticulture areas define
the characteristics of wine according to the grapes grown in the area.
Soil, slope, sunshine and rain are crucial elements that affect appellations.
All wine regions in the United States have likewise started to recognize
these defined appellations. Two well-known wine regions in the United
States, Napa Valley and Sonoma County, have very specific and unique appellations.
In this article, Sonoma County's appellations are outlined.
Sonoma County
Sonoma Valley
Northern California's history of wine growing begins here, in the
"Valley of the Moon," where Franciscan Padres planted the region's
first grapes in 1823. Many of the ancient winery stone shells still stand
as a reminder of the valley's history. Vineyards cover 13,000 acres with
42 wineries in the area. The climate is warmed by sun and cooled by airflows
from both the San Francisco Bay (south) and the Santa Rosa Plain (northwest).
In the coolest area, chardonnay and pinot noir are grown. Up valley, chardonnay,
merlot and cabernet sauvignon are all grown. At higher elevations, zinfandel
is grown.
Carneros
On the northern-most edge of San Francisco Bay, this appellation rises
gradually from flat wetlands. It is one of the coolest regions in Sonoma
County due in part to the bay's influence. Vineyards cover 8,000 acres
with 22 wineries producing wine. Pinot noir and chardonnay grow particularly
well in this area. Pinot noirs show a jammy, strawberry character while
chardonnays display tropical fruit and floral characters. Merlot is starting
to emerge as another important varietal.
Sonoma Mountain
This area rises above the Sonoma Valley to the east and the Santa
Rosa Plain to the west. The region produces primarily cabernet sauvignon,
which mostly defines this viticulture area. The region's eastern exposure
allows full morning sunlight to promote a long, even ripening season allowing
for slow maturation of the grapes. The steep slopes and excellent drainage
allow for smaller berries, producing powerful and intense fruit, from
black currant to cassis, with notes of blackberry that adds complexity.
Vineyards cover 800 acres with three wineries producing wine.
Sonoma Coast
The "hottest" new region is in fact the coolest region.
Due to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, it receives twice the rainfall
of inland areas, but is still warm enough to ripen wine grapes to their
fullest. The vineyards rise above the fog line on steep slopes. Chardonnay
grapes define the area in addition to producing pinot noir. Chardonnay
wine is typically loaded with a hazelnut character and a creamy texture.
Pinot noirs are silky with black cherry fruit and medium spice. There
are 7,000 acres of vineyards planted with five wineries producing wine.
Russian River
The Russian River winds its way through Sonoma County until it meets
the Pacific Ocean at Jenner-by-the-Sea. This region produces outstanding
chardonnay and pinot noir wines. Morning fog tempers the afternoon heat,
allowing the grapes a long ripening process. Vineyards cover 10,000 acres
with 50 wineries producing wine.
Green Valley
Cool temperatures in the region foster fully mature fruit flavors
that pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon can achieve. Fog appears both
in the morning and evening hours. Pinot noirs are typically velvety smooth,
spicy and have dark berry flavors. Chardonnays are crisp, fruit-laden
and creamy. Gewürztraminer is also grown with success in the area.
Vineyards cover 1,200 acres with 10 wineries producing wine.
Chalk Hill
This area is on the north side of Windsor, extending along a stretch
of the Russian River. The name "Chalk Hill" is derived from
the volcanic ash hillsides that offer excellent drainage and sunny exposures.
Chalk Hill is expressively well-known for its mineral-filled, fresh grass,
crisp sauvignon blancs, "big" chardonnays and cabernet sauvignons
that are full-bodied and complex. Cabernet franc and merlot, which grow
well in the area, are often blended with cabernet sauvignon, further adding
texture, complexity and richness to the wine. Vineyards cover 1,000 acres
with five wineries producing wine.
Dry Creek Valley
Dry Creek Valley is considered quintessential Sonoma Country; warm
days tempered by morning fog and mild evenings. Sauvignon blanc and zinfandel
shine, both on the narrow valley floor and hillsides above. Synonymous
with the ideal weather and fertile region for growing grapes, fruit grows
abundantly. Apricots, peaches, plums, pears, olives and even Kiwi are
abundant. Italian pioneers who found the geography similar to their native
Tuscany and Piedmont soon discovered the region, which was originally
planted by French immigrants beginning in 1870. The Italians planted petite
syrah, zinfandel and carignane to produce hearty wines. The leading varieties
currently planted (other than zinfandel and sauvignon blanc) are cabernet
sauvignon and merlot. The austere rocky soils are ideal for producing
fruit that is concentrated and has complex flavors. This area is very
picturesque, located near the foot of Lake Sonoma. Vineyards cover 10,000
acres with 28 wineries producing wine.
Alexander Valley
The valley is named for Cyrus Alexander, an early pioneer. It flanks
the Russian River from Cloverdale to Healdsburg. Along the very gravelly
benchland grows cabernet sauvignon. Cabernet sauvignon from this region
is soft, inviting and forward. The lowlands produce chardonnays that are
identifiable by ripe fruit, rich flavors with subtle complexity. The warmer
northern end of the valley is best suited for cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel,
merlot and newer varieties such as syrah and sangiovese. Vineyards on
the hillsides provide rich, complex and intense wines. Vineyards cover
15,000 acres with 28 wineries producing wine.
Knights Valley
Centuries ago, the Russian River flowed through the Alexander Valley,
continued through the Knights and Napa Valleys, finally ending its journey
at the Pacific Ocean around present day Monterey. An eruption of Mount
St. Helena had a huge affect on Knights Valley as it altered the course
of the Russian River westward at Healdsburg. The valley is protected by
the Pacific Ocean's influence, but is still one of the warmest viticultural
areas in Sonoma. Sauvignon blanc is exceptional as too are the bordeaux
meritage varieties, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec, petite verdot
and cabernet franc. Wines typically are richly fruited with an abundance
of tobacco, cedar, plum and chocolate. Vineyards cover 2,000 acres with
two wineries producing wines.
Sonoma County has truly emerged as one of the great wine-producing areas
in the United States.
CMAA and the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) are currently working together to develop exciting new culinary programs that are specific to the private club industry. Members can attend classes in areas that specialize in catering large events, hot and cold buffets, seafood specialties, plate presentations, desserts, world cuisines, making sauces as well as an array of many other topics. They will range from two-, three- and five-day programs to others that will last up to two full weeks. Please visit ClubNet® at www.cmaa.org for more information as it becomes available, or you may contact Joe Patrick, manager, University-Based Programs, at (703) 739-9500 with any questions.
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