|
Inside:
|
|
|
|
|
|
WANTED:
Your Expertise, Ideas and Menus
|
|
|
One
of the benefits of being a member of the International Wine
Society is the opportunity to exchange ideas and knowledge
on the wine programs at your clubs. Please tell the editors
of Wine Society News about the fascinating world of
wine at your club! Spot any trends? Had any successful wine
dinners or tastings at your club? Do you have any advice for
fellow club managers on how to build a successful wine cellar,
market new wines or influence members' tastes? Please share
menus and events with other club managers by sending photos,
articles or ideas to Bridget Gorman Wendling by FAX at (703)
739-0124 or by e-mail at gormanbr@cmaa.org.
|
Improving
your Club Wine Program, Part II
Last month, I shared some of my views on enhancing your wine program with older vintages. This month, I'd like to give you some of my views on corkage fees and accessories.
First, let's look at the corkage fee.
At a recent informal gathering of several fellow club managers, the issue was raised of wine corkage fees. We were all very surprised to learn that our fees ranged from a low of $7.50 per bottle to a high of $17.50 plus 20 percent per bottle.
A few managers prevented the practice entirely. The high-ended prices as well as the absolute prohibition, in my opinion, send the wrong message to our wine-loving club members.
Let's face it, a lot of our members have their own cellars, many of them quite exotic. If we, as club managers, establish reasonable corkage fees that encourage our members to use their clubs' dining facilities, the benefits are many.
First and foremost, we don't lose potential business to our wine-friendly competitors. Furthermore, if a reasonable corkage fee is charged, perhaps $10 to $12, and a service charge is added, then you have just sent $11 to $14.40 straight to the bottom line with no cost of goods sold.
What does that do to your bar cost? It sends it into a positive direction each and every time you collect corkage fees. Another potential benefit is the sale of port, dessert wine or a supplemental glass of similar wine if the member requires such an addition to finish the meal.
Any manager
who allows corkage fees knows there is another hidden benefit. Often,
we as managers are asked to taste the member's wine. This, of course,
strengthens our bond with that member and broadens our palate.
And last, our image as service-oriented (vs. profit-oriented) managers is enhanced in our members' eyes.
Last month, I shared some of my views on enhancing your wine program with older vintages. This month, I'd like to give you some of my views on corkage fees and accessories.
First, let's look at the corkage fee.
At a recent informal gathering of several fellow club managers, the issue was raised of wine corkage fees. We were all very surprised to learn that our fees ranged from a low of $7.50 per bottle to a high of $17.50 plus 20 percent per bottle.
A few managers prevented the practice entirely. The high-ended prices as well as the absolute prohibition, in my opinion, send the wrong message to our wine-loving club members.
Let's face it, a lot of our members have their own cellars, many of them quite exotic. If we, as club managers, establish reasonable corkage fees that encourage our members to use their clubs' dining facilities, the benefits are many.
First and foremost, we don't lose potential business to our wine-friendly competitors. Furthermore, if a reasonable corkage fee is charged, perhaps $10 to $12, and a service charge is added, then you have just sent $11 to $14.40 straight to the bottom line with no cost of goods sold.
What does that do to your bar cost? It sends it into a positive direction each and every time you collect corkage fees. Another potential benefit is the sale of port, dessert wine or a supplemental glass of similar wine if the member requires such an addition to finish the meal.
 |
|
Decanting
selected red wines becomes a plus for your club's wine program.
|
And last, our image as service-oriented (vs. profit-oriented) managers is enhanced in our members' eyes.
Finally, don't forget to let your board know what you are doing; corkage fees can be a source of some objection. Make sure you are not going to allow it for anything other than a la carte dining (not banquets).
Accessories
How
about a few easy tips on upgrading your wine program? First, what's
the general condition of your tableside buckets and stands? Does the
silver shine? Are they elegant? A good wine bucket and stand from
Progressive Pro doesn't cost more than $130. Call them (508-892-9618)
and ask to receive a catalogue.
Red bottle caddies will enhance the presentation of your reds and will keep the bottle from tipping or staining your white linen. For $20, you can get a nice silver caddie from one of the many silver accessory purveyors or your local restaurant supply house.
Carafes are important for the presentation of older bottles that might have sediment, or younger bottles that might just need to breathe to soften the tannins. Glass carafes are also useful for juices for continental breakfast service. Tip: Don't decant red burgundies older than 12 years -- the fruit goes very quickly. Libby Glass sells various shaped carafes in 12-pack cases.
Finally, reward the member who buys a $100-plus bottle with special oversized crystal glasses. Make a big deal out of the special glassware when you or your captain make the wine presentation. Oversized crystal glassware is readily available from many purveyors and you only need to keep two dozen in house.
Sandy McGaughey, CCM
2001 International Wine Society Host
Red bottle caddies will enhance the presentation of your reds and will keep the bottle from tipping or staining your white linen. For $20, you can get a nice silver caddie from one of the many silver accessory purveyors or your local restaurant supply house.
Carafes are important for the presentation of older bottles that might have sediment, or younger bottles that might just need to breathe to soften the tannins. Glass carafes are also useful for juices for continental breakfast service. Tip: Don't decant red burgundies older than 12 years -- the fruit goes very quickly. Libby Glass sells various shaped carafes in 12-pack cases.
Finally, reward the member who buys a $100-plus bottle with special oversized crystal glasses. Make a big deal out of the special glassware when you or your captain make the wine presentation. Oversized crystal glassware is readily available from many purveyors and you only need to keep two dozen in house.
Sandy McGaughey, CCM
2001 International Wine Society Host
Cellar
Notes - Port:
A Drink for a New Century! -
By
Gerald O'Callaghn
"To understand the nature of port wine, it is really necessary to travel due east of Oporto, into the heart of the oldest demarcated wine growing region of the world."
This was the opening remark of Sandy Block at the New England Club Managers Association Wine Society education seminar last November. Mr. Block is a "Master of Wine," vice president of Product Strategies and general manager of the import division at the Whitehall Companies. He was the guest speaker at the Hope Club on November 6, 2000, where he led those in attendance through two hours of a highly educational tasting seminar on various Barros ports.
Port wine
is made from grapes grown in the Duoro Valley, located in the north
of Portugal. The natural fermentation of grapes is stopped by the addition
of high-proof brandy. This brandy maintains high residual natural sugar/sweetness.
Port wine has 18 percent to 22 percent alcohol by volume and around
100 grams of sugar per liter. The region was the first delimited in
1755 by the Marquis de Pombal, and the only delimited area that can
produce port wine.
After an initial year of storage in the Duoro Valley, the port wine will mature in oak vats in aging lodges. It ages a minimum average of three years before being bottled and placed on the market. The vast proportion of port is red, although white also is made. While the least expensive rubies and tawnies can still be exported in bulk, all other port is now bottled in Portugal.
On this particular afternoon at the Hope Club, we had the opportunity to taste different styles of port and learn about their characteristics and how best to serve each one. The producer chosen for the tasting was Barros. One of the largest port shippers through its acquisition of other houses, Barros was founded in 1913 and is still owned by the Barros family.
How many types of port are available? Those in attendance were surprised to learn of the numerous categories on the market.
"To understand the nature of port wine, it is really necessary to travel due east of Oporto, into the heart of the oldest demarcated wine growing region of the world."
This was the opening remark of Sandy Block at the New England Club Managers Association Wine Society education seminar last November. Mr. Block is a "Master of Wine," vice president of Product Strategies and general manager of the import division at the Whitehall Companies. He was the guest speaker at the Hope Club on November 6, 2000, where he led those in attendance through two hours of a highly educational tasting seminar on various Barros ports.
 |
| Port wine is made from grapes grown in the Duoro Valley, located in the north of Portugal. |
After an initial year of storage in the Duoro Valley, the port wine will mature in oak vats in aging lodges. It ages a minimum average of three years before being bottled and placed on the market. The vast proportion of port is red, although white also is made. While the least expensive rubies and tawnies can still be exported in bulk, all other port is now bottled in Portugal.
On this particular afternoon at the Hope Club, we had the opportunity to taste different styles of port and learn about their characteristics and how best to serve each one. The producer chosen for the tasting was Barros. One of the largest port shippers through its acquisition of other houses, Barros was founded in 1913 and is still owned by the Barros family.
How many types of port are available? Those in attendance were surprised to learn of the numerous categories on the market.
Ruby Port
This
is a red-colored port wine, which has matured for three years before
being sold.
Late Bottled Vintage (LBV)
Late Bottled Vintage (LBV)
This
is wine from a single year, which has been kept in the wood between
four and six years before being bottled.
Single Quinta
Single Quinta
This
port is from one year and from one quinta (estate). It has been bottled
after two years in the wood. The shipper may keep bottles until they
mature, or they may be sold young.
Vintage
Vintage
This
is port from an exceptional year and of the highest quality. A vintage
is declared two years after a harvest. The shipper feels the wine is
developing well and should have a long life. Once bottled, all maturation
takes place in the bottle, causing sediment -- hence the need for the
decanting old vintage ports. Declaration of a vintage port is normally
made by a number of shippers after prolonged discussion. Very intense
and deep in color, it presents an enormous concentration of fruity aroma.
Tawny
Tawny
The
basic tawny has been aged in wood for five years until some of its color
has faded, and then bottled. Usually ruby and white port have been added
to produce tawny.
Aged Tawny
Aged Tawny
Ten-,
20-, 30- and 40-year-old tawnies are permitted in this category. These
ages refer to the average length of time the wine has been aged in wood,
with the final blend containing both younger and older wines.
Colheita Tawny
Colheita Tawny
This
is a tawny port sold with a vintage date on it. It has been aged in
wood from the date on the label, which must be more than seven years
ago. (This is the one category that caused some confusion!)
White
This is an aperitif style of port made from white grapes, which can be either sweet or quite dry. Once Mr. Block had walked us through the various styles and their tasting characteristics, he gave us some helpful hints as to what dishes would complement the above repertoire.
White
This is an aperitif style of port made from white grapes, which can be either sweet or quite dry. Once Mr. Block had walked us through the various styles and their tasting characteristics, he gave us some helpful hints as to what dishes would complement the above repertoire.
| Rich Ruby: | Chocolate desserts, rich creamy cheeses. |
|
LBV:
|
Red juicy meats and richly cooked meats.
|
|
Tawny:
|
May be served slightly chilled as an aperitif with
vol au vents.
|
|
Colheita:
|
Dessert wine with dried fruits and nuts, pies and
blue cheese.
|
|
White:
|
Excellent as a dessert wine served with vanilla
cream and passion fruit.
|
| Vintage Port: |
Decant
and leave to breathe accompanied with the classic Stilton
cheese, nuts or figs.
|
All
good things must come to an end and so did this fine afternoon presented
by Sandy Block. He certainly showed why he earned the title of "Master
of Wine." We left with a greater understanding of port wine and realized
that it is experiencing a 
renaissance.
It is being rediscovered,
not just for its traditional digestive properties, but also as a drink
for a new century.
renaissance.
It is being rediscovered,
not just for its traditional digestive properties, but also as a drink
for a new century. De-Mystifying
the Bubbles - Is it Champagne?
A bottle of bubbly often tops shopping lists anytime the word "celebration" is mentioned. The problem many face, though, is how to tell the difference between sparkling wine and champagne.
Is it champagne? Depends who you ask. To the French, "champagne" comes only from the region of the same name in France, which has produced wine since the days of the Roman Empire and still bottles some of the best vintages in the world. It is produced using the "methode Champenoise" also known as the "methode traditionelle." In this method, the grapes are picked, pressed, fermented and turned into still wine. The still wine is then placed in a tightly stoppered bottle, a combination of yeast and sugar is added to the wine and the yeast converts the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. When this process takes place in the making of still wine, the carbon dioxide floats away, but when it takes place in a tightly stoppered bottle, the carbon dioxide is absorbed into the wine -- making the wine sparkle.
French producers of champagne carefully guard the right to use the name champagne on a bottle and have done so since 1891, when the Treaty of Madrid was signed. The treaty declared that only wines made in a particular region could use the name on the bottle. In 1919, the Treaty of Versailles, the peace agreement ending World War I, reaffirmed that rule.
Why, then, do we see bottles marked "champagne" that are produced in the United States? The United States never signed the Treaty of Versailles, but, rather, had a separate peace agreement with Germany that did not include regulations regarding spirits. It is a hot debate amongst wine enthusiasts whether a bottle of Napa Valley's Schramsberg is really"champagne." Defenders of the "methode Champenoise" claim that champagne flavors are more complex and less fruity than some American sparkling wines. While this may be true, consumers should not believe that this in any way makes sparkling wines inferior. In fact, many French champagne houses also operate American vineyards. For example, Domaine Chandon is owned by the French house Moët & Chandon, makers of Dom Pérignon.
Sparkling wines and champagnes can range in price from less than $10 to well more than $2,000. The bottom line is that, if you choose a vintage champagne, you are going to spend the most money. A vintage sparkling wine is made of grapes from one specific year. A non-vintage sparkling wine is a blend, or cuvee, of grapes from at least two years. If you are looking to serve champagne without spending top dollar, you might want to go for a non-vintage champagne or a sparkling wine from the United States. Don't be afraid to have something that's not expensive -- just because it doesn't cost a lot of money,doesn't
mean it's not good. Be adventurous, try several varieties and answer
for yourself, "Is it champagne?"
A bottle of bubbly often tops shopping lists anytime the word "celebration" is mentioned. The problem many face, though, is how to tell the difference between sparkling wine and champagne.
Is it champagne? Depends who you ask. To the French, "champagne" comes only from the region of the same name in France, which has produced wine since the days of the Roman Empire and still bottles some of the best vintages in the world. It is produced using the "methode Champenoise" also known as the "methode traditionelle." In this method, the grapes are picked, pressed, fermented and turned into still wine. The still wine is then placed in a tightly stoppered bottle, a combination of yeast and sugar is added to the wine and the yeast converts the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. When this process takes place in the making of still wine, the carbon dioxide floats away, but when it takes place in a tightly stoppered bottle, the carbon dioxide is absorbed into the wine -- making the wine sparkle.
French producers of champagne carefully guard the right to use the name champagne on a bottle and have done so since 1891, when the Treaty of Madrid was signed. The treaty declared that only wines made in a particular region could use the name on the bottle. In 1919, the Treaty of Versailles, the peace agreement ending World War I, reaffirmed that rule.
Why, then, do we see bottles marked "champagne" that are produced in the United States? The United States never signed the Treaty of Versailles, but, rather, had a separate peace agreement with Germany that did not include regulations regarding spirits. It is a hot debate amongst wine enthusiasts whether a bottle of Napa Valley's Schramsberg is really"champagne." Defenders of the "methode Champenoise" claim that champagne flavors are more complex and less fruity than some American sparkling wines. While this may be true, consumers should not believe that this in any way makes sparkling wines inferior. In fact, many French champagne houses also operate American vineyards. For example, Domaine Chandon is owned by the French house Moët & Chandon, makers of Dom Pérignon.
Sparkling wines and champagnes can range in price from less than $10 to well more than $2,000. The bottom line is that, if you choose a vintage champagne, you are going to spend the most money. A vintage sparkling wine is made of grapes from one specific year. A non-vintage sparkling wine is a blend, or cuvee, of grapes from at least two years. If you are looking to serve champagne without spending top dollar, you might want to go for a non-vintage champagne or a sparkling wine from the United States. Don't be afraid to have something that's not expensive -- just because it doesn't cost a lot of money,
doesn't
mean it's not good. Be adventurous, try several varieties and answer
for yourself, "Is it champagne?" Cellar
Notes - BBQ
Wines -- Hot off the Grill -
By
Kirk Reese, CCM
With summer comes the thrill of the grill and the sizzle of a great steak cooked over hot coals. What are some great Barbecue matches? Look no further than here.
Appetizers and Sangria -- This is a crowd pleaser requiring inexpensive wine purchased in large vat-like containers mixed in equal parts of red wine and apple juice with 1/2 oz. of brandy (not cognac) per serving and sliced fruit such as apples, oranges, lemons and limes. Serve over ice or chilled. You may wish to add sugar to sweeten the pot. Sangria is the Kool Aid® form of adult beverage taking you back to days gone by. A very simple drink requiring fun with little regard for anything you might serve such as chips, salsa, guacamole or white bean dip. Now show me the water slide.
Shrimp on the "barbe" -- A New Zealand or Australian riesling would pair magnificently with prawns, especially when prepared in a citrus marinade or simply butter. The recommended wine would be 2000 Leasingham 'Bin 7' Riesling.
Steamers -- Steamed littleneck clams are traditionally accompanied by beer. Because this is a wine article, let's serve it with a wine with enough acidity to cut through the butter -- Chablis. Considered a classic accompaniment to shellfish is the 1999 Verget Chablis "Vaillons."
Barbecued Swordfish -- A regal pairing with this fair and flaky poisson would require a nice sauvignon blanc to restore the raciness of the light flesh after the grill. The best sauvignon blanc for the job would be 2000 Gainey "Limited Selection" Sauvignon Blanc from Santa Barbara.
Grilled Sausages -- These spicy or not so spicy (excluding Oscar Mayer) sausages deserve a charcuterie-type wine with some sweetness to blunt the heat and spiciness to match the fire. A strong dose of acidity will be needed to cut through the richness found inside the casing. The wine called for in this match is the 1999 Gewürztraminer of Marcel Deiss.
Grilled Salmon -- As would be recommended in Seattle, the wine selected here is a northwestern neighbor, a 1998 pinot noir from Secret House in Oregon. The wine is a wild-mannered pinot noir with plenty of bright cherry. It's perfect for cutting through Coho or wild salmon off the grill.
Babyback Ribs -- A piquant delicacy off the grill. A wine with the appropriate amount of tannins and acidity to cut the thick and sweet smoky sauce from the local pit is the 1998 St. Joseph of Alain Graillot. This syrah-based wine is big enough to combat succulent ribs while jammy enough not to be swept away by a Texas-like sauce.
Barbecue Chicken -- With chicken off the grill, a more rustic wine could be served. Perhaps a 1994 Rioja Riserva from Cune. The plum, licorice and smoke flavors complement fine tannins typically found in Spanish wines aged for a number of years in the barriques. The mild flavors of the chicken allow for more flavorful yet lighter styled red.
Steak -- Nothing beats a great cabernet and a great steak simply grilled with sea salt, cracked pepper and olive oil. As with the chicken, simpler dishes allow for a greater focus on the wine. My choice? A cabernet of a more recent vintage with a dose of tannin (not an entire tree), the 1997 Arrowood. Smooth and with well-integrated tannins, the polished fruit will show offnext
to the steak. So,
fire up those grills and pass the vino!
With summer comes the thrill of the grill and the sizzle of a great steak cooked over hot coals. What are some great Barbecue matches? Look no further than here.
Appetizers and Sangria -- This is a crowd pleaser requiring inexpensive wine purchased in large vat-like containers mixed in equal parts of red wine and apple juice with 1/2 oz. of brandy (not cognac) per serving and sliced fruit such as apples, oranges, lemons and limes. Serve over ice or chilled. You may wish to add sugar to sweeten the pot. Sangria is the Kool Aid® form of adult beverage taking you back to days gone by. A very simple drink requiring fun with little regard for anything you might serve such as chips, salsa, guacamole or white bean dip. Now show me the water slide.
Shrimp on the "barbe" -- A New Zealand or Australian riesling would pair magnificently with prawns, especially when prepared in a citrus marinade or simply butter. The recommended wine would be 2000 Leasingham 'Bin 7' Riesling.
Steamers -- Steamed littleneck clams are traditionally accompanied by beer. Because this is a wine article, let's serve it with a wine with enough acidity to cut through the butter -- Chablis. Considered a classic accompaniment to shellfish is the 1999 Verget Chablis "Vaillons."
Barbecued Swordfish -- A regal pairing with this fair and flaky poisson would require a nice sauvignon blanc to restore the raciness of the light flesh after the grill. The best sauvignon blanc for the job would be 2000 Gainey "Limited Selection" Sauvignon Blanc from Santa Barbara.
Grilled Sausages -- These spicy or not so spicy (excluding Oscar Mayer) sausages deserve a charcuterie-type wine with some sweetness to blunt the heat and spiciness to match the fire. A strong dose of acidity will be needed to cut through the richness found inside the casing. The wine called for in this match is the 1999 Gewürztraminer of Marcel Deiss.
Grilled Salmon -- As would be recommended in Seattle, the wine selected here is a northwestern neighbor, a 1998 pinot noir from Secret House in Oregon. The wine is a wild-mannered pinot noir with plenty of bright cherry. It's perfect for cutting through Coho or wild salmon off the grill.
Babyback Ribs -- A piquant delicacy off the grill. A wine with the appropriate amount of tannins and acidity to cut the thick and sweet smoky sauce from the local pit is the 1998 St. Joseph of Alain Graillot. This syrah-based wine is big enough to combat succulent ribs while jammy enough not to be swept away by a Texas-like sauce.
Barbecue Chicken -- With chicken off the grill, a more rustic wine could be served. Perhaps a 1994 Rioja Riserva from Cune. The plum, licorice and smoke flavors complement fine tannins typically found in Spanish wines aged for a number of years in the barriques. The mild flavors of the chicken allow for more flavorful yet lighter styled red.
Steak -- Nothing beats a great cabernet and a great steak simply grilled with sea salt, cracked pepper and olive oil. As with the chicken, simpler dishes allow for a greater focus on the wine. My choice? A cabernet of a more recent vintage with a dose of tannin (not an entire tree), the 1997 Arrowood. Smooth and with well-integrated tannins, the polished fruit will show off
next
to the steak. So,
fire up those grills and pass the vino!Cellar
Notes - Blending Wine and Art -- A Goethe Tasting -
By
Kirk Reese, CCM
A very special tasting was held at the Goethe Institute in Washington, D.C., recently. The Goethe Institute, a German cultural organization, hosted Matthias Koeppel for a blending
of art and wine in a show titled, "Abscheid der Moderne, Who's Afraid of the Brandenburg Gate?"
Koeppel produced 21 paintings of Berlin's Brandenburg Gate, one of Germany's symbols of both past and present, both negative and positive. The gate served as the entrance to Berlin's government buildings during the Nazi era, as well as being the sight of the famous speech by President Reagan in which he implored, "Mr. Gorbachev tear down this wall." Twenty of the paintings represented the style of masters from a certain school or method. Each painting was produced with three of the same elements: the gate itself, a manner of transportation through the gate and a representation of the artist.
A showing was then held at which German wine critics were invited to view the gallery and match wines based on their impressions of the paintings. Twelve of the paintings were matched with a wine with the following comments of the artist and wine critics. Click here for a list of the artists featured.
A very special tasting was held at the Goethe Institute in Washington, D.C., recently. The Goethe Institute, a German cultural organization, hosted Matthias Koeppel for a blending
of art and wine in a show titled, "Abscheid der Moderne, Who's Afraid of the Brandenburg Gate?"
Koeppel produced 21 paintings of Berlin's Brandenburg Gate, one of Germany's symbols of both past and present, both negative and positive. The gate served as the entrance to Berlin's government buildings during the Nazi era, as well as being the sight of the famous speech by President Reagan in which he implored, "Mr. Gorbachev tear down this wall." Twenty of the paintings represented the style of masters from a certain school or method. Each painting was produced with three of the same elements: the gate itself, a manner of transportation through the gate and a representation of the artist.
A showing was then held at which German wine critics were invited to view the gallery and match wines based on their impressions of the paintings. Twelve of the paintings were matched with a wine with the following comments of the artist and wine critics. Click here for a list of the artists featured.
The wines
themselves are art. In tasting the selections, the evolution of German
wines, which typically have been mass- produced wines of little substance,
and their ever-growing quality, primarily at the Q.b.A. level, was apparent.
Much more of the craft in winemaking has been applied to wines across
the board, from gewürztraminers to pinot gris and even pinot noir.
In each case, the wines selected were taken back to the producer and a
limited edition magnum was produced featuring the painting on the label.
The magnums are only for sale in Germany. Whether
you choose to agree with the critics' choices or not, adding the second
and third dimensions of taste and smell to sight, provided a powerful
exhibition of art and wine. The wine
evoked more emotion from the art and made an exhibit much more memorable
for all.
wine
evoked more emotion from the art and made an exhibit much more memorable
for all.Cellar
Notes - Luce della Vite (Light of The Vine) Marchesi de' Frescobaldi
and Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines
By Thomas Bertani, CCM
It was fait accompli that the union of two revered wine families in 1995 would create a great Italian wine of elegance and superior quality. In an age in which hyperbole is de rigueur, this truly was a historic wine venture involving the first families of Italian winemaking: Marchesi de' Frescobaldi, with more than 753 years of winemaking expertise, and Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines, the first family of wine making in the United States, whose winery has produced outstanding wines for more than 30 years. "The two families represent the best of Italian and American winemaking" and their union of resources represented the first joint effort of its kind in Italy. The Mondavi family believes that wine is art and, as such, is best appreciated when enjoyed in the company of the culinary, performing and fine arts. The Frescobaldi family possesses a centuries-old history in the fields of Italian art, culture, trade and finance. They believe successful winemaking results from combining tradition and innovation.
"The goal of our partnership is to produce excellent and unique wines by combining the vision, technical skills and love of the land that our families share," said Vittorio Frescobaldi, president of Marchesi de' Frescobaldi.
"This joint venture is a fulfillment of my family's dream to honor their Italian heritage," said R. Michael Mondavi, president and CEO of Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines.
The first
wine vinified by the partnership was Luce, an ultra-premium red wine
from Montalcino. The wine provided the inspiration for Lucente, first
released in 1998. Luce, a blend of sangiovese and merlot, is a wine
that reflects the unique qualities of its Montalcino hillside origins.
Lucente, the second ultra-premium wine, also a sangiovese and merlot
blend, vibrantly expresses the character of the Frescobaldi's three
most prestigious estates in Tuscany. The sangiovese is harvested from
the Castel Giocondo estate in Montalcino and the Castello di Nipozzano
estate in Chianti Rufina. The merlot is exclusively from the Castiglioni
estate in Chianti Colli Fiorentini. For Luce and Lucente, the partners
decided to work outside the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)
appellation to allow the freedom to create new and exciting Tuscan wines.
DOC applies to wines from specified grape varieties, such as sangiovese,
grown in defined zones and vinified and aged following fixed methods
meeting established standards of color, aroma, flavor, alcohol, acidity,
etc. Regulations of each DOC are determined by producers in the zone
supervised by the National Wine Committee. Luce and Lucente are bottled
under Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT). IGT was created in 1992 to
include Italy's super Tuscans and other distinguished and often very
expensive wines produced in a non-classical manner or with non-Tuscan
grape varieties. Tim Mondavi and Lamberto Frescobaldi are the joint
winemakers with assistance from Nicolo D'Afflitto. In January 2000,
the joint venture acquired La Capitana, a large property in southern
Tuscany to be developed into vineyards for the Lucente label. "We are
discovering new viticultral regions beyond the superb Frescobaldi estates
in Montalcino," said Tim Mondavi.
I was quite fortunate to be invited to attend a luncheon hosted by St. Louis wholesaler, Garco Wine Co., which represents Luce and Lucente -- fortunate because the restaurant selected was one of St. Louis' finest, Tratorria Marcella. The wines sampled included Danzante Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese, Pomino Bianco and Lucente, 1997 and 1998 and, most importantly, I had the opportunity to hear Ferdinando Frescobaldi speak. Excerpts are as follows:
"St. Louis is a beautiful town. I had no idea how beautiful, it is my first trip to St. Louis. My family from Tuscany in the area of Florence, 800 years making wine. Land must be right, respect for land. Marchesi Frescoboldi, selling and promoting culture, close to the arts, wine is first the product of grapes. Grapes from the vines, must respect soil, the region, known to the French as terroir. Respect region, respect is big goal. Has been a big goal. Mondavi family has respect for soil, terroir. Same goal, try to do wine first quality, to try to do something very special. Our winery is one of oldest, 753 years family making wine in Italy. Seek innovation; want Tuscan wine that has character of Tuscany, but something new. Open to innovation. In 1972 and1973 planted in one estate first merlot grape ever planted and also cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. No more cabernet franc or cabernet sauvignon, not right, region not right, merlot though is very good. Castel Giocondo, Castello Di Nipozzano and Castiglioni vineyards produce merlot and sangiovese, put together for another wine, Lucente. Mr. Mondavi's idea, blend sangiovese and merlot philosophy. When I talk about wine and land can go on for 100 years. Great respect of soil and land, region, mirror the personality of the soil."
Wines Sampled
By Thomas Bertani, CCM
It was fait accompli that the union of two revered wine families in 1995 would create a great Italian wine of elegance and superior quality. In an age in which hyperbole is de rigueur, this truly was a historic wine venture involving the first families of Italian winemaking: Marchesi de' Frescobaldi, with more than 753 years of winemaking expertise, and Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines, the first family of wine making in the United States, whose winery has produced outstanding wines for more than 30 years. "The two families represent the best of Italian and American winemaking" and their union of resources represented the first joint effort of its kind in Italy. The Mondavi family believes that wine is art and, as such, is best appreciated when enjoyed in the company of the culinary, performing and fine arts. The Frescobaldi family possesses a centuries-old history in the fields of Italian art, culture, trade and finance. They believe successful winemaking results from combining tradition and innovation.
"The goal of our partnership is to produce excellent and unique wines by combining the vision, technical skills and love of the land that our families share," said Vittorio Frescobaldi, president of Marchesi de' Frescobaldi.
"This joint venture is a fulfillment of my family's dream to honor their Italian heritage," said R. Michael Mondavi, president and CEO of Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines.
|
MENU
|
| Appetizers |
|
Smoked
trout with red delicious apples in phyllo cup
Carpaccio
di Crostini
|
|
First
Course
|
|
Tomato
tortina with basil infused olive oil and crispy leeks
|
|
Main
Course
|
|
Veal
Involtine with saffron and morel risotto
|
| Dessert |
| Red wine soup with raspberry sorbet |
I was quite fortunate to be invited to attend a luncheon hosted by St. Louis wholesaler, Garco Wine Co., which represents Luce and Lucente -- fortunate because the restaurant selected was one of St. Louis' finest, Tratorria Marcella. The wines sampled included Danzante Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese, Pomino Bianco and Lucente, 1997 and 1998 and, most importantly, I had the opportunity to hear Ferdinando Frescobaldi speak. Excerpts are as follows:
"St. Louis is a beautiful town. I had no idea how beautiful, it is my first trip to St. Louis. My family from Tuscany in the area of Florence, 800 years making wine. Land must be right, respect for land. Marchesi Frescoboldi, selling and promoting culture, close to the arts, wine is first the product of grapes. Grapes from the vines, must respect soil, the region, known to the French as terroir. Respect region, respect is big goal. Has been a big goal. Mondavi family has respect for soil, terroir. Same goal, try to do wine first quality, to try to do something very special. Our winery is one of oldest, 753 years family making wine in Italy. Seek innovation; want Tuscan wine that has character of Tuscany, but something new. Open to innovation. In 1972 and1973 planted in one estate first merlot grape ever planted and also cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. No more cabernet franc or cabernet sauvignon, not right, region not right, merlot though is very good. Castel Giocondo, Castello Di Nipozzano and Castiglioni vineyards produce merlot and sangiovese, put together for another wine, Lucente. Mr. Mondavi's idea, blend sangiovese and merlot philosophy. When I talk about wine and land can go on for 100 years. Great respect of soil and land, region, mirror the personality of the soil."
Wines Sampled
The
Danzante Pinot Grigio 1999 was pleasant and drinkable but the Danzante
sangiovese 1998 was truly a great bargain at $86 a case (the pinot grigio
likewise is $86). I highly recommend the sangiovese, perfect for the
upcoming summer season. These wines are created by the Mondavi and Frescobaldi
venture and are the second vintage produced.
The Pomino Bianco 1999 was magnificent. Produced by the Frescobaldi winery, it represents the innovation of which the winery is proud. The winery planted French vine clones, chardonnay and pinot blanc, which produces a wine that on the nose is floral, has hints of peaches with good acid balance and is fresh and vibrant. It is a perfect compliment to grilled chicken or seafood.
The
Lucente 1997 and 1998 are outstanding. I particularly liked the 1998
vintage, which is surprising since the 1997 vintage is acclaimed as
one of the best ever in Italy. These are truly food wines that are best
matched with Italian cuisine. The 1997 is currently available with the
1998 vintage soon to be released. As proof of age worthiness of these
wines, I brought along a bottle of the first vintage of Lucente 1995
from my own cellar. It was remarkable.
The dessert wine, La Famiglia Di Robert Mondavi Moscato Bianco, 1999, semi-sweet, exotic, floral and redolant of ripe apricots and orange blossoms, was a fitting conclusion to a memorable event.
Kudos also to the chef of Trattoria Marcella, as the menu was well-suited for the wines and well-prepared, as you can see below. I left a happy soul with a signed bottle of Lucente 1998, a signed menu, a complimentary bottle of Marcheside'
Frescobaldi estate olive oil and a feeling of blissful content.
The Pomino Bianco 1999 was magnificent. Produced by the Frescobaldi winery, it represents the innovation of which the winery is proud. The winery planted French vine clones, chardonnay and pinot blanc, which produces a wine that on the nose is floral, has hints of peaches with good acid balance and is fresh and vibrant. It is a perfect compliment to grilled chicken or seafood.
The
Lucente 1997 and 1998 are outstanding. I particularly liked the 1998
vintage, which is surprising since the 1997 vintage is acclaimed as
one of the best ever in Italy. These are truly food wines that are best
matched with Italian cuisine. The 1997 is currently available with the
1998 vintage soon to be released. As proof of age worthiness of these
wines, I brought along a bottle of the first vintage of Lucente 1995
from my own cellar. It was remarkable.The dessert wine, La Famiglia Di Robert Mondavi Moscato Bianco, 1999, semi-sweet, exotic, floral and redolant of ripe apricots and orange blossoms, was a fitting conclusion to a memorable event.
Kudos also to the chef of Trattoria Marcella, as the menu was well-suited for the wines and well-prepared, as you can see below. I left a happy soul with a signed bottle of Lucente 1998, a signed menu, a complimentary bottle of Marchesi
de'
Frescobaldi estate olive oil and a feeling of blissful content.
Society
Happenings - Chef
Fearing to Gallop into Pre - Conference Workshop
By Mitch Marron
Renowned Executive Chef Dean Fearing of The Mansion on Turtle Creek will bring "The Best of the Southwest" to a pre-conference food and wine seminar on Saturday, February 2, 2002, just prior to CMAA's World Conference on Club Management in San Antonio, TX. What makes this even more "rootin' tootin'" is that we have a rare opportunity to taste wines from the preeminent Texas winery, Llano Estacado. Mark Hyman, president and CEO, looks forward to the chance of showcasing the winery's premium varietal selections, most notably Llano Estacado's Cellar Select Chardonnay and Cellar Select Cabernet Sauvignon.
By Mitch Marron
Renowned Executive Chef Dean Fearing of The Mansion on Turtle Creek will bring "The Best of the Southwest" to a pre-conference food and wine seminar on Saturday, February 2, 2002, just prior to CMAA's World Conference on Club Management in San Antonio, TX. What makes this even more "rootin' tootin'" is that we have a rare opportunity to taste wines from the preeminent Texas winery, Llano Estacado. Mark Hyman, president and CEO, looks forward to the chance of showcasing the winery's premium varietal selections, most notably Llano Estacado's Cellar Select Chardonnay and Cellar Select Cabernet Sauvignon.
Chef
Fearing is regarded as "The Father of Southwestern Cuisine" and has
been at the forefront of new cuisine genre.
As many of you know, Chef Fearing is regarded as "The Father of Southwestern Cuisine" and has been at the forefront of new cuisine genre since becoming The Mansion's executive chef in 1985.
Chef Fearing brings unrelentingly creative exuberance to his cooking style, which has helped earn him The James Beard Foundation Restaurant Award in 1994 for "Best Chef in the Southwest" and the Mobil "Five-Star Award" from 1995-2000.
Chef Fearing enjoys working with seasonal native ingredients complemented by an intriguing array of flavors from around the world.
Chef Fearing will present "The Best of the Southwest" with his usual flair, creative energy and enthusiasm in a way I am sure will send us back to our clubs with the hopes of injecting that same culinary excitement in both our staffs and members. There will also be a rather eclectic wine pairing with lunch that I am sure will both surprise and provoke your vinifera tastebuds.
This workshop will sell out quickly. So, bring your 10- gallon hat, alligator boots and spend a day "kicking up your heels" with Chef Dean Fearing, Mark Hyman and your friends in International WineSociety
of CMAA.
As many of you know, Chef Fearing is regarded as "The Father of Southwestern Cuisine" and has been at the forefront of new cuisine genre since becoming The Mansion's executive chef in 1985.
Chef Fearing brings unrelentingly creative exuberance to his cooking style, which has helped earn him The James Beard Foundation Restaurant Award in 1994 for "Best Chef in the Southwest" and the Mobil "Five-Star Award" from 1995-2000.
Chef Fearing enjoys working with seasonal native ingredients complemented by an intriguing array of flavors from around the world.
Chef Fearing will present "The Best of the Southwest" with his usual flair, creative energy and enthusiasm in a way I am sure will send us back to our clubs with the hopes of injecting that same culinary excitement in both our staffs and members. There will also be a rather eclectic wine pairing with lunch that I am sure will both surprise and provoke your vinifera tastebuds.
This workshop will sell out quickly. So, bring your 10- gallon hat, alligator boots and spend a day "kicking up your heels" with Chef Dean Fearing, Mark Hyman and your friends in International Wine
Society
of CMAA. *
Last
May, during the National Restaurant Show weekend, your Wine Society
Board of Managers met in Chicago with Kathi Driggs and Bridget Gorman
Wendling to work on strategic planning for the organization. Nine board
members were led through the planning process by facilitator Steve More.
The meeting was held at the Union League Club, managed by Jonathan McCabe,
CCM.
The general purpose of the session was to gauge how well the Society was serving its members and how to improve upon our various initiatives. It was generally agreed that most managers joined the Society for educational/social reasons. With that in mind, those in attendance decided to meet again in August to assess how we can improve and increase the Society's educational offerings.
Accordingly, Kirk Reese, CCM, and the Chevy Chase Club will host a special one-day working session in August for five volunteer board members to assess our educational efforts. We will report our findings to the Society in thefall
newsletter and will lay out our future plans for improved wine education.
The general purpose of the session was to gauge how well the Society was serving its members and how to improve upon our various initiatives. It was generally agreed that most managers joined the Society for educational/social reasons. With that in mind, those in attendance decided to meet again in August to assess how we can improve and increase the Society's educational offerings.
Accordingly, Kirk Reese, CCM, and the Chevy Chase Club will host a special one-day working session in August for five volunteer board members to assess our educational efforts. We will report our findings to the Society in the
fall
newsletter and will lay out our future plans for improved wine education.
By Thomas Bertani, CCM
The idea of a "traveling" wine education seminar was proposed by Ernie Lopez at a CMAA Wine Society strategic planning meeting held May 2001. The concept would be to offer a CMAA Wine Society-endorsed seminar available as a supplement to local chapters' educational offerings. Based on response from members, the board recognized the timeliness of Ernie's proposal and authorized him to move forward with the seminar's development. Ernie volunteered Tom Bertani to assist. After a number of meetings, phone calls and e-mails, a pilot seminar was prepared to determine if the educational content meets CMAA members' expectations. The Chicago Chapter presented the first in May and the St. Louis Chapter will offer the second in October.
We have the good fortune that the first family of wine in the United States, Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines, committed to offering this traveling wine seminar. Walter Links, wine educator for Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines, will be the facilitator. It was agreed early on that the seminar offered should be six hours in length to accommodate all the vital information available and to qualify for six CMI points. The seminar would commence with a one-hour, 45-minute wine component symposium focusing on tannin, oak, acid and sugar. A wine tasting of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, fume blanc, bordeaux, mosel riesling, Australian chardonnay and New Zealand sauvignon blanc would follow. After a 15-minute break, a one-hour seminar would follow on properly designing a wine menu (including the core components of a solid menu), wine promotion ideas and successful programs that have worked with other clubs/restaurant/hotels. A lunch hour would then be scheduled. After lunch, a one-hour seminar on the correct technique for storing, presenting, opening, decanting and serving wine would be offered. (It is understood that each club is unique, guided by its members' needs, and information presented is meant to be used as a general framework as it fits the needs of each club.)
The remainder of the seminar would include "Year of the Vine," a one-hour, in-depth study in the production of wine from vine to bottle. The conclusion of the seminar would feature a one-and-a-half-hour seminar titled, "Art of the Vine," a study of the development of specific wine varietals grown in different soils within a specific viticulture.
There are many benefits that come from a relationship between the CMAA Wine Society and Robert Mondavi. Theirs is a diverse wine portfolio in pricing, varietals offered and countries represented. Robert Mondavi offers all economic levels of wine from Woodbridge, the lower-priced tier of wines, to the prestige level of Reserve/Opus wines, thereby addressing the needs of a wide spectrum of clubs' price points. Need wines from Italy, France, Chili or California, (also coming soon, wines from Australia)? No problem. Need sangiovese, merlot, fume blanc, chardonnay, meritage, zinfandel, sauvignon blanc and many other varietals? No problem. Clearly, Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines has the credentials, expertise, prestige and resources to make this seminar very meaningful.
More
information will be made available to all CMAA members after October.
The idea of a "traveling" wine education seminar was proposed by Ernie Lopez at a CMAA Wine Society strategic planning meeting held May 2001. The concept would be to offer a CMAA Wine Society-endorsed seminar available as a supplement to local chapters' educational offerings. Based on response from members, the board recognized the timeliness of Ernie's proposal and authorized him to move forward with the seminar's development. Ernie volunteered Tom Bertani to assist. After a number of meetings, phone calls and e-mails, a pilot seminar was prepared to determine if the educational content meets CMAA members' expectations. The Chicago Chapter presented the first in May and the St. Louis Chapter will offer the second in October.
We have the good fortune that the first family of wine in the United States, Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines, committed to offering this traveling wine seminar. Walter Links, wine educator for Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines, will be the facilitator. It was agreed early on that the seminar offered should be six hours in length to accommodate all the vital information available and to qualify for six CMI points. The seminar would commence with a one-hour, 45-minute wine component symposium focusing on tannin, oak, acid and sugar. A wine tasting of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, fume blanc, bordeaux, mosel riesling, Australian chardonnay and New Zealand sauvignon blanc would follow. After a 15-minute break, a one-hour seminar would follow on properly designing a wine menu (including the core components of a solid menu), wine promotion ideas and successful programs that have worked with other clubs/restaurant/hotels. A lunch hour would then be scheduled. After lunch, a one-hour seminar on the correct technique for storing, presenting, opening, decanting and serving wine would be offered. (It is understood that each club is unique, guided by its members' needs, and information presented is meant to be used as a general framework as it fits the needs of each club.)
The remainder of the seminar would include "Year of the Vine," a one-hour, in-depth study in the production of wine from vine to bottle. The conclusion of the seminar would feature a one-and-a-half-hour seminar titled, "Art of the Vine," a study of the development of specific wine varietals grown in different soils within a specific viticulture.
There are many benefits that come from a relationship between the CMAA Wine Society and Robert Mondavi. Theirs is a diverse wine portfolio in pricing, varietals offered and countries represented. Robert Mondavi offers all economic levels of wine from Woodbridge, the lower-priced tier of wines, to the prestige level of Reserve/Opus wines, thereby addressing the needs of a wide spectrum of clubs' price points. Need wines from Italy, France, Chili or California, (also coming soon, wines from Australia)? No problem. Need sangiovese, merlot, fume blanc, chardonnay, meritage, zinfandel, sauvignon blanc and many other varietals? No problem. Clearly, Robert Mondavi, A Family of Wines has the credentials, expertise, prestige and resources to make this seminar very meaningful.
More
information will be made available to all CMAA members after October.
Contents
© the Club Managers Association of America (CMAA), 2002. All rights
reserved. While every effort was made to ensure the accuracy of URL links,
CMAA is not responsible for errors or omissions. CMAA is not responsible
for the content of linked sites. Please see our Legal
Notice and Disclaimer and Terms
of Use.