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a Wine Dinner (con't) |
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Matching
of food and wines
Many
articles and books are written on pairing wine and food.
The most important factors in creating the best partners
are flavors and the weight of the wine, the flavors and
texture of the food and its accompanying sauce. Tasting
the wines is an invaluable asset to the chef in terms of
matching weights, textures and flavors. The chef should
be able to finely tune the course to the wine. Your chef
may also review wine-tasting notes from various publications
or even over the internet. These tasting notes serve as
a guide to the primary keys in creating a match.
Note
that there is a delicate balance between food and wine.
One should not overpower the wine with too many combinations
of flavors on the plate. In trying to serve many masters,
you would serve none. Concentrate on the primary characteristics
in the wine and food. The pairing should also favor or emphasize
the wine. Attached with this article is a guide to food
and wine pairings covering classical food and wine matches
as well as some more contemporary accompaniments. Some general
keys to wine and food matching are listed below and are
based on taste components of sweet, salt, sour and bitter.
- "Official"
rules do not exist. Many people will drink what is good
without formalizing the process.
- Young
white wines tend to have higher acidity. Acidity allows
these white wines to cut through richness or fat while
complimenting flavors in lighter dishes.
- Young
red wines have higher levels of tannins as a result of
their skins, seeds and stems incorporated in the winemaking.
Tannins, a preservative, add firmness and weight to wine
and direct its use to heavier food groups.
- As
lighter wines are typically served before fuller bodied
wines, later courses should correspondingly increase in
weight. The density of the food is the primary consideration
in matching to red or white wines. Food flavors then allow
the closure to a final match.
- The
differences between wines in a single varietal may be
immense and should cause consideration between individual
winemakers or vineyards. Take chardonnay, for example;
the wine made from growers in Chablis is a light style
with stone, flint and crisp apple flavors. Burgundian
vineyards yield wines of immense richness built on layers
of pear, honeycomb and almonds. A California chardonnay
may have the rich vanilla and toast nose followed by exotic
pineapple, mango or apricot. We are not even touching
on the ways individuals treat their wines after harvest.
- Drier
wines served before sweet wines have greater ranges to
support food matches. Off-dry wines such as those made
from riesling or chenin blanc support food matches because
of the sweetness or saltiness inherent in many foods.
Alternately, a sweet wine can cause difficulty with matches
because their sugar content tends to mask lighter and
more delicate flavors.
- The
sauce plays a role in choosing the wine. Follow the stock
base as a guide such that use of a beef base equates to
a red wine and matches especially with a single varietal
wine as an ingredient of the base.
- Wines
paired with food from their respective regions are generally
ideal.
- Dessert
wines go well with cheese, apples or nuts but less well
with sweet desserts unless plain or cake-like.
- Great
wines will be impressive regardless of the food prepared.
- Note
that as with many "rules," exceptions can be made and,
in many cases, merit becoming "rules" themselves. The
myth of fish requiring white wine is one such "truth".
Red fish like tuna or salmon are appropriately served
with some lighter red wines. Seared, peppered ahi tuna
calls for a red wine such as pinot noir.
Procuring
Wines and the Club Cellar
A
question that may vex all club professionals is procuring
the wines for the event. Wines are generally available,
but not on especially short notice and particularly not
when you wish to pour a highly rated wine from a heralded
producer. You must work closely in planning out the dinner
format with your local source for the wines. Target wines
you would like to serve and obtain release dates for them.
Reserve the wines with the distributor. The club should
be able to have some of the wines held until the event without
paying the carrying cost.
Should
you have successful wine dinners now, you will likely have
successful dinners in the future. Plan for them by utilizing
a cellaring strategy in addition to the current market offerings.
A cellaring strategy is helpful for the following reasons
1. To assure yourself of a premier wine
2. To assure the necessary quantity is on hand.
3. To get the wine at an agreeable price.
4. To avoid inflated re-release or library pricing.
5. To develop a vertical collection of a particular wine
for purposes of contrasting vintages at your event.
6. To ensure the wine has been properly stored and maintained.
7. To build a relationship with the vintner or distributor
who will supply the wines and the key speaker.
A
benefit of cellaring wine is that age worthy wine undergoes
a remarkable transformation between the ages of six and
eight. At that point in time, no retailer is carrying the
vintage in the market. Few winemakers are releasing the
wine from a cellar or library program and restaurants, in
their typically shortsighted manner, have long since depleted
their allocation. A premier wine's auction price may be
greater than two to three times its release price (1990
Bordeaux, for example). The club may now be associated with
the finest restaurants in your area because you have not
fallen prey to the controller advocating inventory turnover
nor the urge to cater to the American "drink 'em if you've
got 'em" palate. The club has joined into the myths and
legends associated with oenophilian sensibilities, serving
vintage wine.
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